Nursery Market Report: March 2001, Think Spring: Daffodil Days

One of the telltale signs that spring has arrived is when daffodils begin to rear their delicate, yellow heads. Daffodils, which belong to the genus Narcissus, frequently appear in beds, borders, under trees and shrubs or in pots.

Few plants give as much pleasure with as little effort as daffodils. They are some of the most vigorous, colorful spring flowers, and with good drainage, these plants thrive in most soils, though they prefer medium-heavy loam.

While daffodils are fairly low maintenance, they do require some tender loving care in the landscape. Here are some care and planting guidelines from University Outreach and Extension, University of Missouri-Columbia.

PREPARING FOR DAFFODILS. Drainage, light, soils, fertilization, planting location and timing are key issues when using daffodils in the landscape.

Drainage. Daffodils need good drainage. Bulbs planted in poorly drained locations become weakened, fail to flower and often develop bulb rots. Bulbs in locations that remain moist during summer when soils are warm develop rots easily. If drainage cannot be improved, raised beds should be built for the daffodils.

Light. Daffodils must have sunlight to develop and flower each year. Plant them where they can get at least a half day of sunlight, and avoid north sides of buildings.

Soils. Because of their need for well-drained conditions, daffodils grow poorly in tight soils that have poor internal drainage - even in locations with good surface drainage.

Light soils generally will not need many amendments, but add liberal quantities of coarse sand and some organic material such as peat moss or leaf mold in heavy, clay soils. In tight soil, as much as six bushels of organic material per 100 square feet of bed area may be added.

Fertilization. Daffodils do not require heavy fertilization. When preparing beds, incorporate 2 to 3 pounds of a complete fertilizer, such as a 5-10-5, into 100 square feet of soil along with sand and organic material. Packaged bulb food also works well.

When planting bulbs in clumps rather than beds, use about a handful of fertilizer per dozen bulbs. Be sure to mix the fertilizer thoroughly with the soil. Never place it directly in the bottom of the hole - a high fertilizer concentration can kill newly emerging roots and promote bulb rots.

Location. Daffodils are suitable for planting in shrub borders, perennial beds and among certain ground covers. They should be planted in groups of three to 12 bulbs of one variety for the best effect.

Daffodils are especially suitable for planting in front of evergreens that provide background and wind protection. Also, keep in mind that daffodils planted near a building foundation in a southern exposure or those on a southern slope generally flower earlier than the same variety in another location.

Timing. Daffodils must have time to develop a good root system before cold weather sets in and the soil freezes. For this reason, planting before mid-October is generally best. In areas where cold weather arrives late, planting as late as Thanksgiving may still give good results. Also, select large, firm, healthy bulbs to get the most from the planting.

DAFFODIL CARE. Daffodils need little care during the spring. Established bulbs should be fertilized lightly as leaves come through the soil. Be careful not to get fertilizer on new leaves, or they may be burned.

During and after flowering, daffodils need plenty of moisture for active growth. However, the bulbs should remain fairly dry during the summer when they are dormant.

After flowering, promptly remove heads to prevent seed production, but don’t cut the foliage until it dies down naturally. The leaves manufacture food that is stored in the bulb, which helps produce flowers the following year. The longer the foliage lasts, the better the blooms will be the following year.

March 2001
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