Simply Soil: Soil Basics

A healthy foundation is the basis for lush landscapes and content clients.

As far as landscape aesthetics are concerned, soil is just the rich, dark bottom framing the view.

But for landscape contractors who want their clients to have more than a mental image of the perfect landscape, soil health cannot be overlooked.

Even though soil testing and improvements are not substitutes for premium varieties, fine weather and proper plant maintenance, they remain useful tools for sustaining quality turf and plant material.

Contractors first must care for the soil that feeds the landscape if they are going to properly maintain, fertilize and grow lush plants. Discovering - rather than guessing - the soil’s ingredients is the first step.

Sampling Scheme

    1. Sample areas used for different types of plants separately. Keep samples taken from lawn areas separate from samples taken from flower and shrub areas. Most samples should represent only one type of planting. If more than three types of plantings are selected, the sample probably represents none of them well.


    2. Sample areas that have received different lime and/or fertilizer treatments separately.


    3. Do not sample areas that have been limed or fertilized within the past few weeks unless trouble is evident.


    4. Where poor growth exists, separate samples should be taken from both good and bad areas, if possible.


    5. To obtain a representative sample, plan to collect 10 to 15 subsamples at random locations within each area. Exception: In areas smaller than 100 square feet, five to 10 subsample locations will be adequate.


    6. Each sample must be submitted in a separate soil test kit with the appropriate soil test questionnaire.

    - Rutgers Cooperative Extension, New Brunswick, N.J.

LIKE A SPONGE. Soil is defined as "a complex medium of organic and inorganic materials providing water and nutrients for plant growth and development," according to John Street, extension agronomist, Ohio Cooperative Extension Service, The Ohio State University, Columbus, Ohio,

In most lawns, the basic inorganic soil elements are silt, clay and sand, pointed out Richard Pete, president, Planet Green, Charlotte, Vt.

"The percentages, by weight, of each of these three components are used to determine the texture of the soil," Street said, explaining that organic matter is the remains of the previous plant growth in the soil and generally ranges from 2 to 4 percent in most Ohio lawns. "Soil nutrients needed by turfgrass and other plants are retained on the surfaces of soil particles and organic matter called exchange sites. The total number of nutrient exchange sites is referred to as the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) of the soil. The higher the CEC value, the richer the soil is in the contents of nutrients." (see Soil Test Interpretation below).

Soil microbes digest organic matter, creating humus, which is a characteristic of perfect loam soil. Humus, according to Pete, is a basic soil element that can only be manufactured by healthy soil. It is also the element most neglected by contractors.

Landscape contractors who know nothing about soil are like doctors who know nothing about nutrition, Pete remarked. "What’s happening above ground isn’t always more important than what’s happening below ground," he said. "Without healthy soil, healthy plants aren’t possible."

But before contractors rush to achieve healthy, loam soil on their clients’ properties, they should examine its appearance and texture. One way for contractors to see and feel healthy soil is to go into a forest and pull back the top soil layer to reveal the microbial layer, Pete said. "This soil is top quality, containing about 20 percent organic matter," he noted. "This is where the soil microbes are feeding on organic matter."

Perfect soil should be sponge-like with a balance between spaces that stick together and porous areas. Soil that is more like a brick, completely stuck together, or like sand, falling apart, is very unhealthy, Pete pointed out. "Sponge-like soil holds more water than most things, but also allows water to pass through it," he said.

Sampling Procedure

    1. The best time to sample soils is when the moisture content is right for tilling - not too wet, not too dry.


    2. Use a trowel, spade, auger or soil tube to obtain thin, vertical slices or cores of soil from the surface to a depth of 6 to 7 inches. If using a trowel or spade, insert the blade into the soil to this same depth, remove soil and throw it aside. Reinsert the blade to take a thin ½-inch soil slice and lift it from the ground. Using a knife, cut a long 1-inch wide core from the slice’s center. Place the core in a clean bucket or other container.


    3. Repeat this procedure in 10 to 15 locations within the sampling area, placing the subsamples together in the container.


    4. If the soil is wet when samples are taken, the soil should be laid out on clean paper to air-dry (do not heat to dry).


    5. Mix the subsamples for a sampling area together in the container. The goal is to provide a representative sample.


    6. Place ½ or 1 pint of the soil in a plastic bag (zip-lock type or one provided by soil testing facility). Seal the plastic bag with a rubber band or twist tie, and place the sample in the cloth mailer bag (or follow mailing instructions set by soil testing facility). The excess soil can be returned to sampling holes.


    7. Repeat for any separate areas that you wish to have tested. Do not place more than one sample in a sample bag.


    8. Fill out soil test questionnaire provided by soil testing facility. Keep your own record of areas sampled, sample identification, serial numbers and date mailed to the soil testing laboratory. Follow mailing instructions set by soil testing lab.

    - Rutgers Cooperative Extension, New Brunswick, N.J.

TAKE THE TEST. Nutrient-deficient soil is normally evident by plant or lawn appearance, Street said. "In turfgrass, symptoms include a light green color, weak or thin turfgrass density despite generous applications of fertilizer or a rapid decline in quality during periods of stress," he said.

The best way for contractors to determine if a client’s property lacks important nutrients and what they should do is by collecting a soil sample and having it tested at a laboratory, a list of which can be obtained through most university extension services.

"To apply optimum levels of nutrients or lime to your soil, you need to know the existing pH and the availability of essential plant nutrients," explained Zane Helsel, director, Rutgers Cooperative Extension, Cook College, New Brunswick, N.J.

The typical soil test determines the soil pH, salinity, nitrates and levels of primary nutrients (phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sodium and sulfur) available to plants and turf. The routine test can also provide the basic N-P-K (nitrogen - phosphorus - potassium) fertilizer recommendations. "The soil test takes the guesswork out of fertilization and is extremely cost effective," Street said. "It not only eliminates the waste of money spent on unnecessary fertilizers, but also eliminates over-usage of fertilizers, hence protecting the environment."

Soil test prices vary slightly from region to region. For instance, a standard soil test is $8 at Rutgers Soil Testing Laboratory, Milltown, N.J., while a quick pH test is $3 and other more specific tests range in price from $3 to $40. A routine test at the Virginia Tech Soil Testing Lab, Blacksburg, Va., is $7 for in-state samples and $10.50 for out-of-state samples. And a routine analysis at the Soil, Water and Forage Testing Laboratory at Texas A&M University - Soil and Crop Sciences, College Station, Texas, is $10. Some tests include fertilizer and lime recommendations, others do not.

When contractors are searching for a soil testing lab to work with, Lynn Griffith, president, A&L Southern Laboratories, suggested finding one they are comfortable with and will continue using. "Don’t use different laboratories or you can become confused by the differences in methods and units," Griffith said, pointing out that some important factors in choosing a laboratory are quality of data, price, soil testing method and ease of understanding the report.

The proper soil test depends on landscape type and condition. Most contractors request a routine test, but lime tests and organic matter tests also are important. Micronutrient, boron and detailed salinity tests are typically used for specialty crops or environmental or research purposes, remarked Tony Provin, assistant professor and soil chemist/laboratory director, Soil, Water and Forage Testing Laboratory.

Soil samples can be taken any time of year, but sampling when the soil is extremely wet is not recommended. Fall months are best, according to most extension agents. "Soil samples can be taken in the spring or fall for established sites," Street attested, adding that sampling every two to three years is usually adequate. "For new sites, soil samples can be taken anytime when the soil is workable. Most people conduct their soil tests in the spring. However, fall is the preferred time if one wants to avoid the spring rush and suspects a soil pH problem. Fall soil testing will allow you ample time to apply lime to raise the soil pH. Sulfur should be applied in the spring if the soil pH needs to be lowered."

Soil testing also is suggested before lawn or landscape establishment, said Bruce Spangenberg, extension educator, horticulture, Rockford Extension Center, Rockford, Ill. "Lawns will get off to a better start if soils are modified at this time," he said.

Steve White, owner, Second Nature Lawn Care, Nashville, Tenn., agreed. "First, you have to get the soil ready," he said. "Skip this step and you’ll have pitiful petunias and awful alyssum."

Soil test results and fertilizer recommendations usually are mailed in two weeks, depending on the laboratory. "Make sure you fill out the form for the types of plants you grow or will be growing," Street stressed. "Otherwise, no recommendations will be given."

EXCLUSIVE ONLINE ONLY SIDEBAR: Quick Tip

    A plant's growth rate is often restricted by soil characteristics. Trees that grow rapidly in ideal soils may grow slowly in other soils, so plant selection should be made with consideration of soil type.

    Some examples of trees that grow fast in specific soils are:

    • WET SOILS: cottonwood, silver maple, green ash, willows


    • MOIST, DEEP, FERTILE SOILS: cottonwood, silver maple, honeylocust, black walnut


    • FERTILE SOILS WITH SEASONAL DRY SPELLS: black walnut, honeylocust, hackberry, lacebark elm, northern red oak


    • DROUGHT-STRICKEN SOILS: honeylocust, red cedar, ponderosa pine, Austrian pine

    - Second Nature Lawn Care

NOW WHAT? After test results arrive, contractors should have an idea of what soil needs. Most researchers emphasize the appropriate application of nutrients or other materials that will trigger growth because wasting money on nutrients soils don’t need isn’t economically or environmentally prudent.

Many options exist to improve soil. White mixes in compost and peat moss or vermiculite to ease soil drainage when he prepares sites for planting.

According to Pete, a minimum of 5 percent organic matter is necessary to sustain healthy soil. A source of organic matter like compost will cost contractors 2 to 4 cents per square foot applied, Pete said.

White also said he sometimes mixes a slow-release granular fertilizer into the soil before planting because it lasts up to four months and nourishes plants all season long.

"Soil test results that reveal a shortage of phosphorus or potassium influence the decision of how much starter fertilizer is needed since starter fertilizers typically have balanced ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, such as 10-10-10 or 12-12-12," Spangenberg added.

But this step may not be necessary based on the amount of organic matter in the soil, Pete said. "If you have 10 percent organic matter in the soil, you don’t have to fertilize because you are getting 100 pounds of nitrogen per acre from the microbial process in the soil," he explained.

Lime is another element that can be added to soil to improve its pH, in particular.

Soil pH, which is a measure of the soil's acidity or alkalinity, is more acidic when it's below 7.0 and more alkaline when it's above 7.0. Different areas require different ideal pH levels. For instance, Ohio turfgrasses require soils with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0, Street said.

When soil pH drops below 6.0 or rises above 8.0, nutrients necessary from proper plant growth, such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium, magnesium and molybdenum, become less available for plant use, which results in the plant's color, vigor and ability to resist heat, drought or traffic stress to decline, Street said. "When pH is low, application of the right amount of lime can increase the availability of nutrients, making plant feeding easier," he said.

Becoming more knowledgeable about soil contents and needs can help contractors choose the right methods of improvement without wasting time, money or plant lives. "If you put a $5 plant in a $50 hole, in 10 years, you’ll have a $500 plant," Pete said, pointing out a common industry adage. "But if you put a $50 plant in a $5 hole, in 10 years, you’ll still only have a $50 plant."

The author is Managing Editor of Lawn & Landscape magazine.

For information on soil pH and soil health for trees mentioned in the article that is available exclusively on Lawn & Landscape Online, click here: EXCLUSIVE ONLINE ONLY SIDEBAR: Quick Tip.

Soil Test Interpretation

    Once the soil test has been conducted and the results are available, the ability to interpret the results is an important consideration in correcting the nutrient deficiency or imbalance.

    The acceptable levels for each of the tests performed in The Ohio State University Research Extension Analytical Lab Standard Test are listed in the chart below. This chart should serve as a general guideline to help determine if your soil is within the acceptable range for each of the parameters tested.

    Acceptable Levels From Standard Soil Test
    TEST PARAMETER ACCEPTABLE REGIONAL** RANGE
    pH 6.3 to 7.0
    Lime Test Index 68 to 70
    Phosphorus (P) pound/acre 50 to 75
    Potassium (K) pound/acre 200 to 250
    Calcium (Ca) pound/acre 800 to 16,000
    Magnesium (Mg) pound/acre 150 to 2,000
    Cation Exchange Capacity - Course Textures (sands) 1 to 5
    Cation Exchange Capacity - Medium Textures (silts) 5 to 20
    Cation Exchange Capacity - Fine Textures (clays) 20 to 30 plus
    Base Saturation*, percent Ca 40 to 80
    Base Saturation*, percent Mg 0 to 40
    Base Saturation* percent K 1 to 5
    *Assuming pH value is within recommended range
    ** These ranges were prepared for the Ohio area and are meant to give contractors in other areas an example of general ranges.

    CATION EXCHANGE CAPACITY (CEC) - CEC measures the capacity of the soil to hold exchangeable cations (nutrients). The cations include hydrogen, calcium, magnesium and potassium. The CEC depends largely on the amount and type of clay present and the organic matter content. The higher the CEC value, the more cations the soil is able to hold against leaching. It is not practical to attempt to increase the CEC of a soil by adding clay or organic matter on a large-scale basis. Liming an acidic soil will slightly increase the effective CEC.

    BASE SATURATION - The extent to which the absorption complex of a soil is saturated with exchangeable cations other than hydrogen or aluminum. It is expressed as a percentage of the total CEC.

    CALCIUM TO MAGNESIUM RATIO - This ratio is calculated on the basis of percentage saturation of the soil CEC by each element. This ratio should be considered when lime is added to the soil. If the ratio is 1:1 or less (less Ca than Mg), low magnesium limestone should be used. Turfgrasses grow over a wide range of ratios with the ideal ratio being between 6:1 and 10:1.

    MAGNESIUM TO POTASSIUM RATIO - This ratio should be greater than 2:1. In other words, the percent base saturation of Mg should be at least two times the percent base saturation of K. High K frequently results in reduced uptake of Mg by plants. Therefore, to help prevent plant nutrient imbalance, additional Mg may be required to maintain a Mg to K ratio of at least 2:1.

    - John Street, extension agronomist, Ohio Cooperative Extension Service, The Ohio State University, Columbus, Ohio

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