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As fall rolls to a close and you rev up those snowplows, don’t forget to “plant ahead” for the coming spring.
While the official opening of winter is just weeks away, it’s not too late to invest in some perennial flower bulbs. In fact, ‘tis the season to put bulbs in the ground in preparation for next year. Perennial bulbs can be one of a landscaper’s best investments. Plant them once, and your customers can enjoy rich, vibrant gardens for seasons to come. What’s more, even a beginner can plant perennials and other flower bulbs successfully by sticking to a few basic rules.
The following are tips for planting and perpetuating perennial flower bulbs, as outlined by the Netherlands Flower Bulb Information Center in New York City:
Select bulbs that perennialize well. Not all bulbs will return year after year. Find bulbs marked “Good for Perennializing” or “Good for Naturalizing.” Those are more likely to come back each year.
Recently, a group of Dutch flower bulb experts compiled a list of top-performing perennial bulbs for the United States. Their 10 picks were: Narcissus ‘Salome’, Narcissus ‘Ice Follies’, Tulipa ‘Orange Emporer’, Tulipa tarda, Crocus tommasinianus ‘Ruby Giant’, Crocus vernus ‘Jeanne D’Arc’, Camassia cusickii, Leucojum aestivum, Anemone blanda ‘Blue Shades’, and Scilla siberica.
Plant in soil that drains well. It’s been said that “bulbs don’t like wet feet.” So, avoid planting bulbs in spots that tend to collect water, such as downspout areas or hill bottoms. Standing water is damaging to bulbs as well. In a garden bed, add organic matter – like compost or peat – into the soil. Be sure to work the soil down a few inches lower than you actually plan to place the bulbs, so the roots have enough room to spread out.
Choose the best light. Most spring bulbs favor full sunlight, while some can handle life in partial shade. Pay attention to the flowering time on the package or in the catalogue. If the variety you’re planting blooms early, chances are the trees won’t have leafed out yet. Thus, you may end up with more sunny spots than you think. Plan accordingly.
Pointy end up. Bulbs have a top and a bottom. The pointy end is generally the top. However, with small bulbs, such as Anemone blanda and Scilla, it is not so easy to locate the top. Another helpful rule for planting bulbs correctly is “basal plate down.” The basal plate is the flat part on the bottom of the bulb from which the roots sprout. If you take a close look at the bulb, it’s not too hard to find the flat, generally darker plate. If you make a mistake, don’t stress. The bulbs will likely right themselves as they begin to take root.
Perennialized bulbs need food. Those bulbs planted for only one season don’t require fertilizer. They already have all the food they need to flower once. But naturalized and perennialized bulbs are another story. In the spring, they need to recharge after blooming to prepare for the following year.
When spring-flowering bulbs have faded. “Dead-head” the plants by snipping off the faded flower tops. This prevents the formation of seeds and allows the green foliage to die back naturally – a process that generally takes about six weeks after bloom. (A dead-heading exception: daffodils do not require dead-heading – although many people choose to do so for aesthetic reasons. Naturalized beds of daffodils can be left to their own devices after blooming and suffer no harmful consequences.)
If dying foliage seems unattractive, an alternative is camouflage. Interplant bulbs with lilies, coral bells (heuchera) or other perennials that leaf out early in the spring season. They will grow up and around fading bulb plants and disguise the dying foliage of the bulbs.
By adhering to these basics, you and your customers can rest easy this winter – knowing the perennial bulbs you planted for the coming spring will be in beautiful bloom for years to come.
The author is Assistant Editor - Internet for Lawn & Landscape magazine and can be reached at aanderson@lawnandlandscape.com.
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