Take advantage of fall as a time to plant deciduous shrubs and trees (those that shed leaves annually). Without leaves, the plant is under less stress, yet roots are still growing.
The soil is often in better planting condition than in spring, when it might be saturated from rains or melting snow.
Be aware that some tree varieties (mainly willows, oaks and birch) cannot be transplanted in the fall.
Think of the Future. Know the growth habits and needs of ornamentals and trees before the purchase is made and the installation performed. What will be the mature size of the tree?
Will it be too large for the intended planting area? Will it block desirable views? What are the maintenance requirements? Is the needed maintenance in your budget?
Also, does the plant bear fruit that will “mess up” a patio or deck? And, what are the needs of the tree? If it does not do well in wet soils, is the chosen location appropriate?
Preparing a New Home. When planting, obey the old saying, “Dig a $20 hole for a $10 tree.” The hole should be two to three times the width of the root ball, with outward sloping sides.
To determine the depth of the hole needed, first find the root flare (where the trunk flares out to become roots). The root flare might be hidden under excess soil and burlap on balled and burlap plants.
The hole should be just deep enough that the root flare, after planting and settling, is level with the surrounding soil.
Planting too deep is the most common mistake people make. It is always better to plant slightly too shallow than too deep.
Placement. Gently place the plant in the hole and confirm the planting depth is correct.
Obviously, if plants are in plastic containers, remove the plants and, with a sharp knife, make two or three vertical cuts in the roots to relieve root-bound conditions commonly found in container plants.
Make sure the plant is straight, and place soil in the bottom of the hole to stabilize the plant. Remove any synthetic twine and, if in a wire basket, cut away as much wire as possible. Fill the remainder of the hole with soil, being careful not to mound any soil against the trunk.
Maintenance. Water thoroughly, Stick the end of the hose into the loose backfilled soil and fill the planting hole up to the top with water.
Just because the surrounding soil is saturated doesn’t mean the root ball has enough water. It should be watered. To do this, simply let the hose run adjacent to the trunk, over the root zone.
The first watering is critical. It is not only the first good drink of water the plant receives since being out of the ground for weeks; it also serves to settle the soil, stabilizing the plant in the hole without any air pockets.
After the soil settles, add more water if needed.
Apply at least 2 inches of mulch to the root zone and, ideally, out to the drip line (below the tips of branches).
Make sure the mulch is kept away from the trunk a few inches, and never form “volcanoes” with the mulch. Check for water weekly, and water as needed.
Usually in the fall, depending on rainfall, watering is required about every two weeks. As for fertilization, consult with a certified arborist.
Value. If planted and cared for correctly, a tree will thrive and pay you dividends for years to come – in the form of potential energy savings and increased house value.
Source: Illinois Landscape Contractors Association