LIVING ON THE EDGE: TIPS & EDGING TECHNIQUES FOR HOME LAWNS. One of the best ways to give your lawn a clean and organized look is to edge various features such as flowerbeds and sidewalks. Edging can be done in several ways. The most common method of edging involves the use of a power edger that cuts a narrow trench along the lawn edge, leaving a nice manicured look. Edging can also be accomplished with manual edgers that work the same way as a power edger; you simply push and pull these along the sidewalk border. String trimmers are commonly used for large areas. Be aware that string trimmers can be a bit more dangerous when used to cut turf down to the soil level and below as is accomplished with a power edger. Exercise caution when using string trimmers. Finally, specialized shovels are used to leave a cut edge around flowerbeds and gardens. The shovel method often involves hauling cut portions of sod away to the composting bin or to the garden.
All of the above edging methods can be classified as mechanical edging. Chemical edging is another way to edge the lawn. A small garden sprayer can be used to treat a narrow band of lawn with nonselective herbicide. Chemical edging is much easier than mechanical edging but does not result in the same quality or uniformity.
Whether mechanical or chemical, edging should be done each time the lawn is mown or less often depending on the lawn’s condition and the homeowner’s expectations. Some potential problems with edging include increased weed infestation and soil erosion but these problems can be minimized if the lawn is edged properly.
FLUCTUATING TEMPERATURES IN THE SOUTHEAST IMPACT HERBICIDE APPLICATIONS. The high pressure system that dominated most of the middle and southern United States in mid- to late-February (Feb. 17 to 20) is reflected in the soil temperatures. With the reported temperatures in the southeast, crabgrass germination has slowed. However, the potential for crabgrass germination will pick up as warmer temperatures arrive.
Effectiveness of many preemergent herbicides is based on proper timing. Cool soil temperatures are not favorable for germination. Additionally, besides soil temperature, additional factors are involved in crabgrass germination, including soil moisture and turf density. The ideal situation is to apply a preemergent herbicide just prior to crabgrass germination. At this point in time, your herbicide will prevent germination and last longer through the growing season. Plant phenological keys are often used to time crabgrass herbicide applications. The Eastern redbud tree is an example of a phenological timing event. As the redbud tree approaches full bloom, crabgrass germinates. Obviously, a drawback to this plant is that redbuds are not found in every landscape. The most common plant used is forsythia. When forsythia bloom, crabgrass will start germinating. The problem with timing based on flowering is the wide variation in air temperature that can occur.
Soil temperatures are often utilized for determining crabgrass germination. When soil temperatures fall within the range of 52 to 58 F or 55 F at the 4-inch depth, crabgrass will begin germinating. Purchasing a soil temperature thermometer is a good investment if predicting crabgrass germination is important to you. In areas where the turf is thin, soil temperatures will warm quicker than soils under a dense turf.
TO LIME OR NOT TO LIME? To lime or not to lime is the question. But more importantly, what is the answer? There are various products out there to test for pH and while a pH probe will likely give you a reasonable estimation, the probe will not tell you how much lime to apply. The best way to determine if lime is needed and how much to apply is to conduct a soil test. When sampling for a soil test you should draw multiple samples from all over your lawn and may want to consider sampling the front and back lawn separately if you have a sizable lawn. The soil samples should be mixed and slightly air-dried before being sent to a soil testing facility. You can get contact information for a reputable laboratory from your local extension agent. Expect 2 to 6 weeks to receive the results; therefore, you should sample around February for spring liming.)
Results should contain recommendations for soil amendments including the amount of calcium carbonate (lime) per area such as acre or 1,000 square feet. Most liming products are not pure calcium carbonate and thus you must calculate how much to apply. For instance, if the liming product you chose contains 50 percent calcium carbonate equivalent (this is listed on the product label) and your soil recommendation is to apply 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet, you should apply 20 pounds of the liming product for every 1,000 sq ft of lawn.
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