Xeric Planning & Design

Assessing microclimates and grouping plants into hydrozones are essential for efficient landscape water use.

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By grouping plants according to hydrozones, low- medium- and high-water-use plants can all be used in water-wise landscapes. See the sidebar “Plant List: Residential Design” below to find out what plants were used in this design. A larger version of the image can be found on page 96 of the April 2004 issue of Lawn & Landscape. Photo: Clemson University Cooperative Extension

The first step in planning a water-efficient landscape is the process of site analysis. While walking through the site with a piece of paper and a pencil, the designer makes a sketch of the layout of the existing building and driveway, including any decks, patios or walkways. Existing trees, shrubs and flowerbeds are located on the design. Careful notes are made on sun and wind exposure, topography and drainage. Relationships among all site features are considered. Modifications that require grading, paving or construction should be planned at this stage. When modifying an existing landscape, the designer must outline the most important or desirable features. Existing shade trees should be left, whenever possible, because shady landscapes are cooler and need less water than sunny areas. Decisions should be made about what size lawn area is needed, if any. Lawns are often the single largest user of water in the landscape, so reductions in lawn areas should be made where possible. Switching to a more drought-tolerant lawn species can also reduce watering needs.

Plant List: Residential Design

The plants used in the landscape design above include the following. For a copy of the brochure in which the design is featured, please contact the Clemson University Cooperative Extension.

  • Quercus laurifolia (Laurel Oak)
  • Cortaderia selloana (Pampas Grass)
  • Loropetalum chinense (Loropetalum)
  • Prunus laurocerasus ‘Otto Luyken’ (Otto Luyken Laurel)
  • Raphiolepis indica (India Hawthorne)
  • Jasminum floridum (Florida Jasmine)
  • Prunus serrulata (‘Sekiyama’ Japanese Cherry)
  • Cercis canadensis (Redbud)
  • Buddleia davidii (Butterfly Bush)
  • Liriodendron tulipifera (Tulip-Tree)
  • Osmanthus heterophyllus (Holly Osmanthus)
  • Osmanthus fragrans (Fragrant Tea Olive)
  • Phlox subulata (Thrift)
  • Ilex vomitoria ‘Nana’ (Dwarf Yaupon)
  • Betula nigra (Riverbirch)
  • Koelreuteria paniculata (Golden Raintree)
  • Osmanthus fortunei (Fortune’s Osmanthus)
  • Ligustrum lucidum (Waxleaf Ligustrum) (tree form)
  • Callicarpa dichotoma (Purple Beautyberry)
  • Ilex pernyi (Perny Holly)
  • Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’ (European Contorted Filbert)
  • Nandina domestic ‘Harbour Dwarf’ (Dwarf Nandina)
  • Vinca minor (Periwinkle)
  • Ilex cornuta ‘Carissa’ (Carissa Holly)
  • Prunus laurocerasus (English Laurel)
  • *Relocated Podocacarpus (Existing Podocarpus)
  • *Relocated Hollies (Existing Hollies)
  • Rosa banksiae ‘Lutea’ (Banks Rose)
  • Abelia grandiflora ‘Sherwood’ (Glossy Abelia)
  • Fatsia japonica (Japanese Fatsia)
  • Ophiopogon japonicus (Mondo Grass)
  • Ilex glabra (Inkberry Holly)
  • Gelsemium sempervirens (Carolina Jessamine)
  • Abelia x grandiflora (Glossy Abelia)
  • Cedrus deodara (Deodar Cedar)
  • Myrica cerifera (Wax Myrtle) (tree form)
  • Juniperus chinensis sargentii (Sargent Juniper)
  • Hypericum calycinum (Aaronsbeard)
  • Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese Elm)
  • Catharanthus roseus (Madagascar Periwinkle)
  • Verbena canadensis (Clump Verbena)
  • Lantana camara (Common Lantana)
  • Artemisia schmidtiana (Wormwood ‘Silver Mound’)
  • Hemerocallis ‘Stella d’Oro’ (Daylily)
  • Pennistum setaceum (Fountain Grass)
  • Helleborus orientalis (Lenten Rose)
  • Caladium x hortulanum (Caladium ‘Pink Beauty’)
  • Epimedium grandiflorum (Barrenwort)
  • Aster x frikartii (Hardy Aster)
  • Salvia x superba (‘May Night’ Salvia)
  • Rosa hybrida (Climbing Rose)

    Source: Clemson University Cooperative Extension

The site’s microclimates should be outlined in the plan. Microclimates are areas within the design that have environmental conditions that differ from adjacent areas, such as the cool, shady north side of a building. Other microclimates would include the hottest places in full sun on the south side of a building. Areas that receive more water, such as rainfall runoff from the roof or low spots that collect water should also be noted. Coastal residents must also consider the effects of ocean salt spray as it greatly affects plant selection in the landscape.

Microclimates influence plant selection. For example, a large shade tree on the south side of the house will lower temperatures and reduce water demands on an otherwise hot and sunny area. Cooler, shady areas on the north side of buildings are a good environment for shade-loving plants. Some plants thrive in the cool morning sun of an eastern exposure, but wilt in the hot afternoon sun of west-facing exposure.

To achieve the greatest water efficiency, the landscape plan can incorporate “hydrozones” – areas within a design that receive either low, moderate or high amounts of water. All plants within a zone have the same water requirements and can be watered as a group. Plants grouped in this way make most efficient use of irrigation water. For example, certain planting areas may be designated low-water-use zones and would contain plants with low water requirements. These areas receive little or no extra water after plants are established. Placing high-water-use plants in low-water-use zones should be avoided because watering plants with different demands is inefficient.

Introducing a few limited high-water-use zones makes it possible to use specimen plants as an accent or focal point. A vegetable garden or flower border could contain plants that have high water needs and would be considered high-water-use zones. High-water-use zones have also frequently been used near entryways and close to buildings in the past. However, recent research indicates that a high percentage of homes and commercial buildings in the southeast have significant moisture problems and damage related to landscaping. Placement of low-water-use zones adjacent to building foundations could help alleviate the extensive mildew problems and moisture damage that many southeastern homes presently face. In addition, the placement of dense shrubs near the building foundation frequently block foundation vents, which were installed to allow good air circulation beneath the floor of the structure. Thus, plant varieties and placement should be planned to provide free airflow through vents and around foundations and siding of a house.

Excessive moisture applied to landscape plants near the building’s foundation may also promote the development of insect pests. Research has shown that termites, carpenter ants and roaches thrive in moist locations. Reducing moisture around a building’s foundation lessens the chance of invasion by these pests.

Shade is an important feature in a water-efficient landscape. A California study found that surface temperatures cooled an average of 36 degrees in the five minutes following the arrival of the shadow line from overhead foliage. Lower temperatures means less water loss by plants. However, plants placed directly under a shady tree face tree root competition, which may decrease the availability of water. “Dry shade” is a problem that must be considered when planting within a tree’s root zone. Shade is not created only by trees, but also by hardscape features, such as walls, fences, arbors and trellises.

Root depth is an important consideration. Red maple (Acer rubrum) is an example of a shallow-rooted tree that competes with other plants for water and can casue cracking of driveways, sidewalks and patios, as well. Deep-rooted trees, such as willow oak (Quercus phellos) will accommodate understory plantings and cause less damage by roots.

Lawn areas are often the single largest user of water in the landscape, but are an important feature in landscape design. When planning a landscape, be sure to consider how much lawn area is appropriate or needed. Shape lawn areas to make irrigation and maintenance efficient. Highly irregular lawn areas are more difficult to mow or irrigate efficiently. A small, irrigated area of grass can provide much of the aesthetic beauty associated with a larger lawn and can conserve a significant volume of water.

This article was excerpted from the publication 'Xeriscape: Landscape Water Conservation in the Southeast,' produced by the Clemson University Cooperative Extension.

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